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METEORA, GREECE. LIVING ON THE EDGE

Of the many ancient wonders in Greece, be sure to plan a visit to the monasteries in Meteora and the lively nearby town of Gavros. If you are using your GPS, there is a nice little café located on the main square at 39-47’58.19”N 21-35’48.73”E. If you are going early in the year in the February-March timeframe to beat the crowds, be sure to dress warmly. It can be cold and the winds are fierce on the sandstone towers where the monasteries are perched.

The construction of the monasteries date back to the early 1300s. Seeking refuge from the Turks who were interested in acquiring the fertile farm land of Thassaly, the monks constructed at least 20 buildings, each occupying the top of one of the naturally occurring sandstone towers. The only way to access the monastery was to be hauled up in a basket or to climb a rope ladder. This provided the monks ample protection and isolation since the walls of the sandstone towers are vertical and rise nearly 1,200 feet. Aspiring party crashers contemplating the climb must have found this situation a bit dicey.

The monasteries weren’t the only areas occupied by humans. If you carefully observe the cliffs surrounding Gavros, you will see all manner of caves. Some of these, like the cave of Theopetra, contain remnants of human existence that date back 50,000 years. Now, considering that we, humans like us, shared the planet back then with at least 3 other human species including Neanderthals and Denisovans, chances are the people living there were a bit different than your hairy neighbors. Jumping to the present, careful observation will reveal tarps and other modern paraphernalia adorning some of the caves. Modern day isolationists, no doubt.

A tour of one of the six remaining monasteries is worthwhile. Although you don’t need to take a basket or climb a ladder to get in, be prepared for a lot of stair climbing. Also be aware that four of the monasteries are inhabited by monks and two by nuns. Women will be given a billowy apron to wear while visiting. There is no such requirement for men. Remember, these are sacred places, so respectful behavior is mandatory.

Not so much for the town though, where you can let your hair down. Gavros has many a café, bar or restaurant to keep you occupied, lubricated, and otherwise satiated. It’s a bustling place, especially in high season. If you are planning to spend the night, plan accordingly. Many tourists use the town as a hub for outdoor adventures like hiking and mountain biking, the terrain being so spectacular, especially at dawn.

C 2012 Michael Krozer

THE ANCIENTS

If you have an appetite for ancient history, Turkey is the place. And if you like generous portions, visit Ephesus. Founded by the Ionian Greeks, this powerful port city on the Aegean Sea was originally populated in the 10^th century BC (3,000 years ago) and was at its peak of influence between 600 BC and 500 AD, a span of nearly 1,000 years. A sprawling metropolis of the time, it is believed that approximately 300,000 people called it home. The crowds of tourists you see walking the streets here today provides a living example of the buzz of activity that must have been commonplace back then.

The city was erected on low hills next to a good harbor, for it was trade that brought wealth, influence and the city’s ultimate collapse. Notice from the photo that there is no water…today. When studying history, one must understand that rivers, coastlines, and people are always moving and changing. The harbor silted up during the 1,000 years in which the city flourished, and towards the end, even dredging failed to keep the waterways open. No trade, no money, no taxes. The merchants moved on to the port of Izmir, about 36 miles to the north, which is still a major center of commerce today.

So much for the sweeping arc of the story of this great place. What is really interesting are the details of how the people lived and the civic amenities they enjoyed. From a civil engineering perspective, all the waste water flowed through sub-surface sewers to the sea. The streets were flushed clean with water brought in by aqueduct. Residences for the rich were built on terraces near the library, located at the city’s center. The library, shown in the photo, is the multi-story light stone colored structure at the far end of the street. From its prominence, education and knowledge were highly regarded and vital components of this society.

Near the library is a large bath house that featured baths of different temperatures. If you are observant, you will also find carvings showing the way to the house of pleasure (brothel).

Public assembly and artistic entertainment was a practiced lifestyle as evidenced by the 24,000 seat amphitheater. This structure was positioned prominently on the hillside so it was viewed when entering the city on the stone paved avenue leading up from the harbor. As impressive as this is today, it must have looked stunning 2,500 years ago in all its marble clad glory.

The important thing to remember when visiting Ephesus, or any ancient site, is to take your time and let the surroundings and history speak to you. Take time to imagine what is was like. Try to put yourself in the life of the people who were born, lived, loved, and died there. That is the magic, mystery and awe of archeology. We came from somewhere and create a path that leads somewhere. We are all part of the unbroken chain of events of life on our planet.

C 2012 Michael Krozer